Up close and personal: Machalī ("fish" in Hindi) because she has a fish shaped marking on her face. We were about 15 feet away, in Ranthambore National Park, a hunting ground for old Rajput royalty. Machalī is old now and has lost some of her teeth, but what power in those shoulders. This was New Year's Day, Jan. 1 2009. A freezing dawn. An auspicious start. We also saw black-faced monkeys and, down by the banks of a great grey-green greasy river, there were two crocodiles, their big dry yellow mouths open to the sun.
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